Review: The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking by Yamuna Devi

As you know, I have been cooking extensively from The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking by Yamuna Devi. That book is the result of her personal journey, begun serendipitously in 1967 when she traveled to New York to attend her sister's wedding. There she met Srila Prabhupada, the founder of the Krishna Consciousness movement in the U.S., who was officiating at the wedding, and who would become her spiritual and culinary mentor. Within a short time, she was traveling through India absorbing the culture, traditions, and foodways, (particularly the Vedic traditions) and cooking for her mentor. She became a devotee of Krishna and adopted the name Yamuna Devi.
The book, first published in 1987 and reissued in 1999, is as vast as the subcontinent. At 773 pages, it covers the spectrum of Vedic cuisine with more than 500 recipes, an extensive A-Z reference guide to ingredients, cooking techniques, and meal planning and service. The Table of Contents gives a hint at its scope and organization: Rice, Dals, Breads, Vegetables, Dairy Products and Dishes, Salads, Chutneys, Sauces and Relishes, Light Meals and Savories, Snacks and Nibbles, Sweets, Beverages. Pick one item from each section and you have a banquet!
It would be easy to get overwhelmed with this book. But Ms. Devi provides menu planning help with each recipe. She explains the cultural or culinary context in which that particular food is eaten and offers complementary menu items from among the other recipes. She repeats what she believes are the essential instructions and techniques for each recipe, contributing to the heft of the book, but limiting the need to refer to other recipes or explanations.
She also guides the budding cook in exploring techniques of cooking and spicing. For example, the introduction to the Vegetables section explains the three main methods of cooking vegetables and then offers three different potato recipes, each featuring a unique seasoning regimen. She instructs the reader to prepare the each seasoning regimen in each of the three cooking methods (so that's 9 recipes altogether) and to concentrate on the differences in taste, texture, and experience among the recipes. This exercise builds confidence and skill in handing ingredients, spicing, and technique. It also heightens the cook's sensitivity to flavor nuances that might otherwise go unnoticed.
If you are thinking of exploring Indian food, or vegetarian food, this book will be your indispensable guide to creating sumptuous, healthy, exhilarating meals.
Here is a recipe that seems like it will be yummy as the weather gets cooler:

Herbed Split Pea Soup with Apple and Coconut

2/3 c green or yellow split peas
1 t peeled and shredded ginger
1-2 hot chilies, minced
1 t cumin seeds
2 inch piece of cinnamon stick
8 cloves
4 black peppercorns
4T ghee or vegetable oil
1 t tumeric
7 cups water
1 large apple, cored and cut into 16 pieces
1/4 cup fresh or dried shredded coconut
2T minced parsley or coriander leaves
1 1/2 t salt

Soak the split peas in hot water for 5 hours. Drain.
Combing the ginger, chili, cumin seeds, cinnamon, cloves and peppercorns in a small bowl. Heat the ghee or oil in a heavy 3 quart non-stick saucepan. When it is hot, sprinkle in the combined seasonings. Fry until the cumin seeds turn brown. Add turmeric and follow immediately with the water. Bring to boil and add the peas, apple and coconut.
Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, for 1 1/2 hours or until soft. Stir in the herbs and salt and serve.